LEITH is, and has been for centuries, Edinburgh's outlet to the sea. Until the coming of modern roads and the railway, the sea was Scotland's commercial highway, and so from earliest times the interests of Edinburgh and Leith intermingled. It is important to remember that, while a degree of control was exercised by Edinburgh, particularly in relation to maritime trade, Leith was an independent burgh until as recently as 1920. Leith has its own long and distinct history, and to this day Leithers retain a strong sense of community.

The visitor will find many clear signs of this maritime tradition, both ancient and modern. The hub of Leith is the bustling intersection known colloquially as 'the Foot o' the Walk'. This refers to the broad highway named Leith Walk, which is the main thoroughfare linking the Port with Edinburgh. It is hard now to imagine Leith Loan (as it was known then) as a country road in the eighteenth century.

Leith

The statue at the Foot of the Walk is that of Queen Victoria. Trinity House (1816), a classical building in the Kirkgate, serves as Leith's maritime museum. Its collection of documents and antiquities may be viewed by arrangement.

Leith Waterworld, a few yards from the Foot of the Walk, is one of the most exciting leisure facilities to be built in the capital for some years. It has been described as the ultimate water experience, for there are more than 20 water features, including waves, geysers, water cannons, bubble beds, a spa, water chutes and a river run for inflatable rides. It has a poolside cafe and bar, as well as a creche. One ticket lets you enjoy all the facilities, and there are special offers for groups and party bookings. Every weekday morning local groups take over, including parent and toddler groups, playgroups, and groups for women or disabled people. If you want to arrange a special session or find out about private hire, phone (031) 555 6000.

From the Foot of the Walk, Duke Street leads to the historic open space known as Leith Links. One of the links' more peaceful historical associations is with the early form of golf in the sixteenth century. This was the venue of the famous foursome in the seventeenth century (already described) in which the Duke of York was partnered by an Edinburgh shoemaker. The mounds on the links are thought to be the earthworks dug for Oliver Cromwell's artillery in 1650.

Constitution Street leads from the Foot of the Walk to Bernard Street (where there is a fine statue of Robert Burns) and the Shore. Here the Water of Leith debouches into the Forth. One of the interesting old buildings, the King's Wark, is thought to have stood here since the fifteenth century. Not far away, in Burgess Street, stands picturesque Lamb's House, built in the sixteenth century by a merchant of that name. In the 1930s the building was rescued by the 4th Marquess of Bute and restored. This was the building to which Mary, Queen of Scots was conducted when she landed at Leith from France in 1561. It is now used as a day centre for old people.

Within the extensive and modern Leith Docks are the headquarters of the Forth Ports Authority, administrators of six ports and two oil terminals. The authority is among the top five port authorities in the United Kingdom in terms of traffic handled. Leith is also a port of call for cruise ships.

The Shore

Leith has experienced in recent years a boost to its fortunes. The pump was primed by a programme called the Leith Project, funded by public money. Many of the older buildings were restored and cleaned. Landscaping and tree planting led to the improvement of open spaces. The provision of suitable premises encouraged the introduction of fresh commercial activity. The result was a renewed spirit of enterprise in the port, shown for example by a flourishing of interesting restaurants (including fish restaurants) and smart pubs and wine bars. Lothian and Edinburgh Enterprise Ltd (LEEL) continues to work in partnership with the City of Edinburgh and Lothian Regional Council to ensure the area's regeneration. Organisations such as the Scottish Office and Queen Margaret College have plans to move there.

John Crabbie and Co. Ltd, who have been making Crabbie's Green Ginger Wine for some 200 years, welcome visitors to their winery in Great Junction Street at certain times in summer. Crabbie's Green Ginger is still produced to the same handed-down family recipe ' raisin wine matured for up to three years, flavoured with cowslips, elderflowers, cinnamon, cloves, lemons and oranges, blended and fortified with ginger.

Within the James Pringle Woollen Mills, in Bangor Road, there is a Clan Tartan Centre. Its computer archives can trace your clan connection in minutes, and give you details of your clan name, its chief and its tradition. A permanent exhibition shows life as it was in the Highlands, with historical costumes and a video presentation relating the history of tartan.

Coalie Park, at the western end of Great Junction Street, is a pleasant recreational area on the river, created as part of the Leith Project. The park also gives access to the section of the Water of Leith Walkway that leads to Warriston (two kilometres away).

Newhaven Harbour

At the western extremity of Leith Docks is Newhaven Harbour, Edinburgh's traditional fish market. Newhaven, still a distinctive community in the seafaring tradition, can trace its history back to 1504. It was noted for its shipbuilding, and has its place in Scottish history as the birthplace of the Great Michael (1511), built on the orders of James IV for the Scottish Navy and described as the biggest and most powerful ship in the world.