GREYFRIARS KIRK, whose entrance gates stand near the south end of George IV Bridge, is one of Edinburgh's most historic churches. The churchyard, a pleasant green space, has an air of tranquillity that belies its location in the heart of the busy city. This is Edinburgh's oldest graveyard, and it has numerous associations with the history of the town and, indeed, of Scotland.

The original Greyfriars was a Franciscan friary, now long gone. The present church, belonging to the Church of Scotland, dates from 1620 and was the first new church to be erected in Edinburgh after the Reformation. The National Covenant, that militant expression of the Presbyterian faith, was signed in the church in 1638. There is another reminder of Scotland's troubled ecclesiastical history in the presence of a memorial to those Covenanters who were imprisoned here, under conditions of great hardship, for their religious beliefs.

Greyfriars Churchyard

Immediately outside the churchyard gates, at the crest of Candlemaker Row, stands the celebrated bronze likeness of Greyfriars Bobby. This is perhaps the most famous memorial to a dog to be found anywhere. For more than a century now, this true story has had an extraordinary hold on public sentiment; moreover, the story now seems to be as well known abroad as it is in this country, to judge by the numbers of knowledgeable visitors seen being photographed beside the monument.

Greyfriars Bobby

In 1858 this faithful Skye terrier followed the remains of his master, John Gray, to Greyfriars churchyard. After the interment, the dog refused to leave the graveside. For the next 14 years, until his own death, Bobby was never far from the churchyard. A shelter was constructed there for him, and he was given his food regularly in the kitchens of dining rooms nearby. When the question of his licence arose, the lord provost of the day paid it personally.

The touching story of the little dog's fidelity spread throughout the land. Travellers went to the churchyard especially to observe the famous Bobby. One of these, the philanthropist Baroness Burdett Coutts, was so impressed that she was instrumental in having the statue sculpted. The monument was unveiled in 1873, not long after Greyfriars Bobby died. He is now buried within the churchyard.

George IV Bridge is one of those very well disguised Edinburgh bridges that pass themselves off as an ordinary street. The secret is revealed halfway along its length, when the stranger sees for the first time that he is actually on a high bridge, gazing down upon fast-moving traffic in the Cowgate far below. It is another of those little surprises that regularly confront and reward the stroller in Edinburgh.

George IV Bridge is also the address of two of the most important libraries in Edinburgh - two vast literary repositories directly facing each other. The Central Public Library, founded just over 100 years ago through the generosity of Dunfermline-born Andrew Carnegie, has extensive collections of books for borrowing and reference, including special collections on music and the fine arts. There is a Scottish department, and (a unique facility) the Edinburgh Room: its maps, prints, photographs, books, periodicals, newspapers and press cuttings trace the history of Edinburgh from the earliest times. Visitors may use the lending facilities by arrangement.

Directly across the street is the National Library of Scotland, which though in a modern building was founded in 1682 and is one of the UK's copyright deposit libraries. With some 4,500,000 books and an extensive collection of manuscripts, it is one of the largest libraries in Great Britain. Its map collection is among materials now available in a modern annexe at Causewayside.

Royal Museum of Scotland

Another important edifice in this area is the Royal Museum of Scotland in Chambers Street. The museum houses the national collections of decorative arts of the world, archaeology, ethnography, natural history, geology, technology and science. Its displays range from primitive art to space-age materials, and its working models in the Hall of Power are a source of perpetual fascination, particularly among the young. There are also regular programmes of temporary exhibitions, lectures, films and talks. The building, which was designed by Captain Francis Fowke of the Royal Engineers, has been described as one of the finest examples of Victorian architecture in Edinburgh. It was begun in 1861 and completed in 1888. The central hall is notable for the slender grace of its soaring cast-iron columns. An extension being built to the west is due to be completed in 1997.

On the other side of Chambers Street, the handsome nineteenth-century building (formerly the home of Heriot-Watt University) has been adapted to form part of a new Sheriff Court. New construction in the Cowgate at the rear provides accommodation for the Crown Office.

The statue in the middle of Chambers Street is of William Chambers, lord provost from 1865 to 1869, who led a campaign for improvement of public health in the Old Town.